SWEET ENDINGS
“Life is short. Eat dessert first.”
—Jacques Torres
The celebrity chef Jacques Torres makes an excellent argument… For those who agree, this piece is for you! Yet, according to food historian Deborah Krohn in a conversation with chef and writer Yotam Ottolenghi for Food & Wine (www.foodandwine.com), dessert as we know it today wasn’t really a thing until the seventeenth century. Before then, “dessert” was more of a practical, preserved food item that you likely wouldn’t enjoy alone. Savory and sweet dishes were also presented indistinguishably. Consider that sugar had been a rare commodity until the burgeoning cultivation of New World plantations brought sugar prices down, allowing the ingredient to be more widely accessed and used. Louis XIV was one such enthusiast, a trailblazer in confectionary, and he also avidly grew out-of-season fruit—nature’s candy, and an important element of any sweet course. Hence, the origins of the modern dessert are, unsurprisingly, rooted at Versailles. The decadent pastries, elaborate cakes, and fruit sculptures seen at the French court mirrored the indulgent spirits of those that ultimately consumed them. It was then that the idea to serve different courses emerged. And by the mid-1600s, cookbooks dedicated solely to desserts described ending a meal with sweets. Obviously, that has continued to the present day. So, dig into these sugary Central Valley favorites!
Editorial Director Lauren Barisic
Photographer Don Dizon