HIGH PROFILE: JOSE REYES
CRŪ Winery is one of the Central Valley’s most glittering gems, and Winemaker Jose Reyes is the man behind its impeccable varietals. Although Jose’s wines consistently receive 90+ point scores from Wine Enthusiast magazine, the man is as down to earth as his grapes. “It’s something I love. It’s my passion. It’s something I enjoy. I like that I’m not just sitting at the desk,” the winemaker shares. The passion Jose exudes for his craft is as captivating as the vino he bottles.
Originally from Sinaloa, Mexico, Jose first came to the wine business (and California) some three decades ago, and got his start at the historical Bargetto Winery in Santa Cruz—he used to ride past it on his bike. One day, he met the owner and began working there the next day. “My inspiration comes from the beginning,” Jose speaks of that first winery job, where he cleaned tanks. He moved over to harvesting, which is where he became more hands-on with the fermentation process.
It was then that Jose first started thinking of how the wine would turn out, given all its variables. He has no formal viniculture or viticulture education—everything Jose knows has been learned first-hand and on the job, both under the guidance of others and by his own trial and error. In Santa Cruz, Jose recalls tasting the wines and noting the differences between varieties, educating himself along the way. “That’s when I began learning about winemaking and started to work in production.”
The winemaker is a lifelong student of his craft, and is always working toward a better product. “I always try to do something different, to create something different, to make it more special,” he shares. Jose and his family had moved to Los Banos in 2007, which prompted him to look for work close to where they lived. “So, that’s when I drove by and saw the sign up there on the wall that said ‘CRŪ Winery’ and I thought, ‘Hmm, maybe I should stop by and see if they have any open positions.’” That was in 2009, and he’s been there since.
Jose started out as Cellar Master, moved up to Assistant Winemaker, and was named Winemaker at CRŪ in 2018. Today, he works closely with Cellar Master Robert Arroyo, who manages the day-to-day operations at the cellar. Jose is also assisted by Winemaking Assistant & Cellar Hand Juan Reyes, his second of eight children. The winemaker is meticulous about preparation, yet he also welcomes obstacles. “I tell them, ‘I like problems because if I don’t have problems, I can’t learn from them!’” he optimistically states. “We always move forward and work together very, very hard.”
One component Jose has been keen on developing is the use of different barrels for aging. “Each wine varietal from this area requires specific barrels,” he explains. It used to be that CRŪ wines would age approximately nine months. However, under Jose’s direction, the wine now barrel ages at least 15 months. “I’m trying to finish the wines exactly the way I want,” he imparts. Aging those wines in barrels for a longer time allows Jose to achieve his desired outcome: deeper profile, fuller flavor, and more character.
Becoming CRŪ’s winemaker has allowed Jose the opportunity to show the world his passion on a new level. “There’s a special feeling in my spirit when making wine,” he says of the process, noting that he learns something new every year. As the winemaker, “now I can play the game how I’ve always wanted. This is the way I want to achieve this process to make the exact wine I’m aiming for … It opens the door for me to show it: who we are and what we are trying to do at CRŪ going forward.” Jose is cultivating the wine he loves, and the scores his bottles receive are proof that he’s doing something right.
From CRŪ’s past year, there are a handful of wines Jose is especially pleased with. The 2021 Rancho Real Vineyard Late Harvest Viognier from the Santa Maria Valley yielded an extremely limited 600 bottles—served slightly chilled, it’s perfectly suited as a meal finale. “This last year was the first time we made a traditional rosé solely from grenache,” referencing the 2021 Jose’s Rosé of Grenache from Paso Robles, which sold out—those wishing to obtain a bottle of the 2022 varietal should sign up for CRŪ’s mailing list to received first access to its release in May of 2023.
It’s also the first time CRŪ has made a single vineyard Syrah. “Syrah is one of my favorite wines,” Jose professes. “I liked really making this one special,” he shares of this particular vintage. “It’s something new for us. What we tried to do is move forward and create something different.” Already, Jose has been thinking of ways to create the Syrah differently to further improve it. Consider how the cycle of growing and harvest seasons require the winemaker to plan far ahead, in addition to the fermentation and aging processes.
Harvest season is Jose’s busiest time of the year. “I cannot sleep because my babies need me!” laughs Jose, affectionately referring to the grapes. His day starts with coffee at 4:00 AM, then Jose heads out to whichever vineyard needs his attention. He needs to check the fruit early in the morning, as the temperature at the time of picking is vital to the winemaking process. Jose walks down three or four rows picking the berries for testing. Needless to say, he spends a lot of time driving around the Central Coast—CRŪ wines come from vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, Arroyo Seco, Paso Robles, and Edna Valley.
During the harvest season, Jose stays close to home. “I say to myself, ‘You know, it’s only a couple of months, dude. You can do it!’ It’s very restrictive to be on top of everything because you don’t want to miss any part,” especially considering how timing is critical in winemaking. The long, hard days are inevitable. “But it’s something that makes me feel happy. I like the smell of the fermentation. I like to taste it when it’s going forward, and to finish it the way I want,” which includes stopping the fermentation and starting to press at Jose’s direction.
Although he is around wine everyday, Jose divulges his favorite time to imbibe in the fruits of his work is with family. “That’s when I enjoy drinking wine. Then I share all my special wines!” But he’s not the only one bringing interesting bottles to the table. Two of Jose’s brothers also work at wineries, although they can’t agree on which chardonnay is best! Jose tends to gravitate toward red wines; nevertheless, he loves the Sierra Madre Chardonnay and Pinot. “Those are two of my favorites right now!”
This year, Jose is working hard with two wines: the Albarino from San Luis Obispo and a new barrel aged Viognier. “These are two of my favorites” Jose shares. “This is new for us; also … I want to see and show I can make them even better than our previous vintages. So, this is a challenge I have for myself.” He’s sourcing fruit from new places, which brings about a full circle moment for him. Jose is especially excited about getting pinot noir grapes from the same vineyard at the winery in Santa Cruz, from where he started. With Jose Reyes at CRŪ Winery, we surely have much to look forward to with each new release, as the winemaker strives to make each vintage even better than the last.
Features Editor Ann T. Sullivan Whitehurst
Photographers Diane Tjerrild & CRŪ Winery
