“Pumpkin Watch” at The Vintage Press (VP) begins in early September, marking the seasonal debut of Visalia’s most famous recipe on the first day of fall. VP’s Roasted Whole Baby Pumpkins have become arguably the most anticipated dish in Visalia. “People ask for them in July,” admits Chef David Vartanian, who demonstrates how to prepare this fan-favorite dish live at VP’s Recipe Club cooking events during the autumn months.

The Vartanian brothers, Greg and David, oversee the restaurant that their father, John, established in 1966. Today, Greg spearheads the VP’s overall operations, while David has taken over the kitchen and menu development—a role Greg held for three decades. The Roasted Whole Baby Pumpkins are, in fact, Greg’s original creation. “He did it, but I take all the credit for it, though,” Chef David chuckles.

The Vintage Press is renowned for its extensive wine offerings—hailed as “one of the best wine lists in the world” by Wine Spectator magazine—and an upscale farm-to-table menu that changes with the seasons. Any meal at this traditional fine-dining establishment is a delight. Four distinct dining rooms and a charming garden create an old-world dining experience, making pumpkin season even more delightful.

VP’s Roasted Whole Baby Pumpkin emerged from a desire to utilize seasonal abundance. “About 40 years ago, Greg said we were looking for something for fall, and he developed the recipe. He didn’t get it from anywhere else; he came up with it originally,” Chef David recounts of his brother’s culinary creation. “He was going to use a big pumpkin to do something with, and he saw all these little ones around, which weren’t being utilized at the time very much.” Now, they are a seasonal staple.

The baby pumpkin love lasts as long as the squash supply remains available. Last year, it was done early. The goal is to have them through mid-December, though they have occasionally stayed on the menu as late as January. So, get them while you can, or try making them yourself! Upon VP’s recommendation, this recipe serves six as a first course.

Roasted Whole Baby Pumpkins

with Jarlsberg, Spicy Smoked Chicken and Cream

6 oz. heavy cream
1 tbs. chives
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Whole pink peppercorns (for garnish)

6 baby pumpkins
6 oz. Jarlsberg cheese
6 oz. smoked chicken, diced
2 tbs. hot chili sauce
1 onion, diced
1 tbs. butter

Instructions
Place the whole pumpkins in a baking pan. Cover the pan with foil and bake in a 325-degree oven for 45 minutes, or until the pumpkins are soft.

Remove the tops of the pumpkins with a sharp knife. Discard the seeds, and season the insides with salt and pepper.

Heat the butter in a sauté pan, and cook the onion over medium heat until soft. In a bowl, combine the smoked chicken, Jarlsberg cheese, cooked onion, and chives. Mix well and season with salt, pepper, and chili sauce to taste.

Fill the pumpkins with the smoked chicken mixture, then pour one ounce of heavy cream into each pumpkin. Place the tops back onto each pumpkin. Roast them in a 350-degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes.

To serve, warm six plates. Place one prepared pumpkin on each plate along with one ounce of Lemon Butter Sauce. Garnish with whole pink peppercorns.

Lemon Butter Sauce

1 lemon, juiced
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tbs. chives

2 shallots, diced
1 cup white wine
1 oz. Champagne vinegar
2 oz. heavy cream
6 oz. sweet cream butter

Instructions
In a saucepan, combine the shallots, wine, and vinegar. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by half. Add the heavy cream and simmer until reduced by half again. Over low heat, whisk in the sweet cream butter, one piece at a time. Season with mustard, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Add the chives just before serving.

Editorial Director Lauren Barisic
Contributing Chefs Greg Vartanian & David Vartanian
Photographer Don Dizon